So we did the tourist thing and went to Milford Sound. Since it's a dot on the map, and more than 1000 tourists come in per day, you'd think there'd be a town there. There's a coffee vending machine. There's also a lodge / hostel. No store to buy food. Wierd. Just cause there's a dot on the map in NZ, don't count on any buildings.
Took a cruise ship out and saw the sound (it's actually a fjord... whatever) and it's really amazing how steep and huge the fjord walls are. Basically the same impression that I got when I visited Norway, only there aren't people living up on mini-farms on the sides of the fjords here. You can't make them out well here, but there was a pod of maybe 50 dolphins swimming around our boat, playing.
Pretty amazing, but also pretty touristy. Luckily our 75 person boat only had about 10 people on it, and they gave away the cafe food at the end for $1 per item because it was the last cruise of the day.